Can you handle dart frogs

Take, for example, the bright yellow Phyllobates terribilis , said to be the most poisonous frog on earth. Nabors calls Phyllobates terribilis "a great starter dart frog. While scientists haven't worked out all the details, it appears that in the wild, these frogs get their poisons from their diets.

In captivity, though, Phyllobates are fed fruit flies and crickets, which don't contain these poisons. So you could hold a whole handful of these frogs and be none the worse for the experience. In fact, holding a whole handful of Phyllobates would be more harmful to the frogs than it would be to you — they have delicate skin and aren't suited for cuddling. Nabors, who has been in the frog-breeding business since , also points out that the hundreds of other species of dart frogs are far less toxic than Phyllobates.

In any case, that's hardly a property that's unique to dart frogs. While a dart frog won't poison you, it can make your home look nicer, and not just because of its amazing colors.

Dart frogs live in specially crafted natural terrariums that may include tropical plants, orchids and mosses, as well as elaborate technology such as automatic misting systems. These habitats were part of what attracted Nabors to the dart frog, and many of his customers seem to feel the same way. For this reason, dietary supplementation with D3 is the most common method used with dart frog keepers. Dart frogs are best kept at temperatures in the low-mid 70s.

Temperatures above the mid 80s can quickly become dangerous. Humidity can be a difficult aspect for new keepers to dart frogs. Because of their humidity requirements, a bioactive enclosure is key to successfully keeping dart frogs. Bromeliads in particular are an excellent option at helping raise ambient humidity as they hold water in their axils. There is no other way to successfully keep dart frogs long term than in a bioactive enclosure. As stated above, a drainage layer is a must to prevent the substrate from stagnating and developing bad bacteria due to their high humidity demands.

The drainage layer should be topped with a screen protector to prevent substrate from mixing in. Utilizing both a dwarf species of isopod, such as dwarf whites, and a larger species, such as dairy cows or powder blues along with tropical springtails and BioShot works wonders breaking down waste, aerating the substrate, keeping mold in check and serving as a secondary food source for dart frogs.

Sphagnum moss should be used to help maintain humidity and an abundance of leaf litter should be provided for all dart frogs, as they often seek refuge under the leaves. Magnolia is the recommended leaf litter for dart frogs due to the large size serving as shelter and the longer time it takes to break down.

There is nothing like building your own slice of the jungle to keep in the comfort of your home. Plants and lots of cover are key to keeping dart frogs happy and healthy.

Cork tubes and flats will be appreciated by the frogs and can double as mounting sites for epiphytic plants such as bromeliads and tillandsias. Nut pods are always an excellent addition as well, as they break down very slowly, attract springtails by the hundreds, so having them in an enclosure makes it easier to get a visual of how well the springtail population is doing and serve as secondary water sources.

Diet is often considered the most difficult aspect of keeping dart frogs. They must be fed live, tiny insects which can be difficult to source. Most keepers use flightless fruit flies and springtails as dietary staples. It can be easy to learn how to culture fruit flies at home which ensures you always have food available and allows you to save money not having to buy pre-made cultures.

Other feeder options include extra small black soldier fly larvae, bean beetles, fruit fly larvae, rice flour beetles and pinhead crickets for larger species. Feeding schedule and amount depends on the age, species and amount of dart frogs being housed, but generally speaking, juveniles should be fed at least times a week and adults If you are not seeing any flies left, increase the amount and if there are just a few here and there, you are right on the money! Supplementation is paramount when keeping dart frogs.

Just like with diet, variety is key with supplements as well. It can be beneficial to rotate supplements as many of them derive their nutrient content from different sources, thus get absorbed and utilized differently by the frogs. So, here is the straight story! First, and most importantly, poison dart frogs are completely non-toxic when captive bred. Even wild-caught frogs gradually lose their poisons in captivity.

Wild-caught poison dart frogs should always be treated with caution, due to the possibility that there skins may contain poisons. In order to create their toxins, poison dart frogs need certain chemicals, which are present in the insects they eat in the wild. The exact nature of these ingredients is poorly understood at this point, but one thing is known for sure, these poisons are not in their diet in captivity.

The poison is what gives the frogs their name, and over the years these frogs have been called by a number of different names by hobbyists. At this point the most widely used name in the hobby is poison dart frogs, often shortened to just dart frogs. Poison dart frogs are commonly bred in captivity. Captive-bred poison dart frogs are available from breeders, at pet stores and at reptile shows.

Wild-caught poison dart frogs do show up fairly regularly in the hobby, but I suggest sticking with captive-bred frogs. You can run into a variety of potential problems with wild-caught frogs. Poison dart frogs can be divided up into two or three different size groups.

The species that are most popular in the hobby are medium to larger size poison dart frogs. As adults, these frogs are generally about the size of a large grape, or around one and a half inches in length.

Maximum size for any poison dart frog is about two and a half inches. In addition to the large poison dart frog species, a variety of smaller species are also available. When you go looking for your first poison dart frogs, you will find that most vendors are offering babies and juveniles. Baby poison dart frogs, or frogs up to around six weeks old, are only about a half inch long, and should be avoided. These small frogs will be more difficult for the beginner to get established, and are generally more fragile.

A much better bet is to find a breeder who can offer you juveniles, or three to five month old frogs, usually three quarters of an inch up to a bit over an inch.

These larger juvenile frogs are generally going to be more well established, and will be more likely to thrive for you! Although there have been occasional reports of poison dart frogs living more than 20 years in captivity, a more typical life span is four to eight years.

Most poison dart frogs are sold as juveniles or babies, so at this size, they do best if housed in a small container. I recommend a sweaterbox or similar size translucent sided container. Many customers pass our gorgeous dart frog display tanks and say "man would be cool to have those". Well you can, and they are a lot easier to care for and maintain than you would think by looking at the enclosure.

A dart frog vivarium could be your new favorite hobby! Dart frogs, without a reasonable doubt, can be housed by the most beautiful planted terrariums. Dart frogs are stunning display animals and already have a bright and vivid color, making them stand out with a splash of color in your green enclosure. Truly, a well-made, active dart frog vivarium looks like a slice of jungle contained within a glass box in the middle of your living room.

Dart frog enclosures should be equipped with some type of water feature, the soothing trickle of water and waterfall aesthetic makes any dart frog tank the perfect focus point of any room.

Instead of setting up the tank for the frogs, sometimes it ends up being the opposite, purchasing frogs as an excuse to set up a beautiful tank! Dart frogs are generally known for their low maintenance. Dart frogs, like all frogs, do not drink water, rather they absorb water through their skin.

There is no need to change out and clean any water dishes or food dishes.